Sunday, December 28, 2014

Reviving the Old Manila One Step at a Time II: #selfiEscolta Walking Tour

Chance upon seeing a Facebook ad of the #selfiEscolta Walking Tour on the 15th of November, I immediately got all the pertinent information and made necessary arrangements for an afternoon walking tour at the forgotten Escolta. It has been a year since I had the sole of my favorite walking shoes feel the pavements of lovely old Manila, and finally, here's another chance to discover the other side of its face.

The #selfiEscolta walking tour ad on Facebook

Comes the 15th of November, the weather is kind of looking not-so-good in the morning, but nevertheless, I, definitely, am not missing this chance to explore this forgotten cultural remnant at the heart of Manila.The small group of 4-6 assembled at the Escolta Ferry Terminal at around 1:30 PM and waited for the tour organizers from Heritage Conservation Society Youth (HCS Youth). 


We were guided by the young and vibrant folks from HCS Youth, Jericho and Clara. Escolta, according to our guides, is actually the home of the finest showcase of Philippine architecture during the American colonial period. This tour may sound a bit of an architectural-ish type, yet, complementing the street's cultural significance to Philippine history. Some even brand Escolta as a street museum because of the various historical edifices in that street. I was thinking, if Intramuros may have branding like 'if these walls can talk', perhaps Escolta may have something like, 'if this street can talk' or maybe, 'if these buildings can talk'.

And to start the tour, the first stop is this UFO-like building designed by the famous National Artist for architecture, Jose Ma. Zaragoza. Now, it is being used as a commercial space by Bank of the Philippines Islands.

BPI Building

As the tour progresses, next stop is Juan Luna E-Services Building. According to the guide, this is the perfect example of the solution to the recent demolition issues of our old buildings. The concept of adaptive re-use is employed here. The façade remains as is, but the structure or the insides were re-constructed to ensure its endurance and functionality that meets the demand of its occupants.


Juan Luna E-services Building

Just across the Juan Luna E-Services Building, is the famous El Hogar Filipino Building. Although it has been popularly known these days as another soon-to-be victim of the demolition of our cultural hot spots, this almost a century-old building actually used to be a wedding gift for the Ayalas. Now, it doesn't have any occupant.

El Hogar Filipino Building

What is #SelfiEscolta tour without a selfie? :)

This one's HSBC Building, and is the home of the first ever commercial office of HSBC in the Philippines. It doesn't have any commercial function at the moment.

HSBC Building

We walked through De los Reyes Building and Uy Chaco Building. I wasn't able to take some nice shots there. Just a few walks away, you'll find the famous Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch. And yes! Escolta is just a few streets away from Binondo and Divisoria, yes!

Filipino-Chines Friendship Arch selfie

Capitol Theatre is the next stop. It is designed by National Artist Juan Nakpil and used to be an art deco theatre. Right now, it is an abandoned edifice.

Capitol Theatre, Escolta

Few steps away from the Capitol Theatre is the Calvo Building, the home of Calvo Museum / Escolta Museum. If one will try to trace back the history of this building, GMA 7 had their first radio broadcast here. Calvo Museum, on its second floor, houses old movie posters, soda bottles, literary works, and other odd cultural artifacts. Most of which are the actual stuff found and seen at the Old Escolta.

Facade of Calvo Building

Some of the cultural artifacts found in Calvo Museum

After a tiresome walk, we made a quick stop at this snack bar just in front of Calvo Building. Ice creams, halo-halos and even full meal courses are served here. I got tuna empanada that perfectly goes with the complimentary ice cream scoop from this snack bar. I got Pistachio flavor, yumyum!



After a quick break, off we go to Regina Building. It is one of the most charming buildings found in Escolta. It used to be the office of the then largest tramp steamship company, Madrigal Shipping. Here in Regina Building, you'll find also a grand staircase.

The grand staircase in Regina Building

Right infront of the Regina Building, is the First United Building. It is the first commercial high-rise structure in Escolta. It has this charming old elevator and is the home of the old Berg's Department Store. Recently, it is being commercially occupied.

The Dolphy Museum in First United Building

The #selfiEscolta tour officially ended at the topmost floor of
First United Building with kuchay.
Kuchay is a yummy empanada-like delicacy that you can find in Escolta.

Cool folks from Heritage Conservation Society Youth

What made my Saturday Escolta adventure even lovelier is the once a month Escolta market happening at the ground floor of First United Building.



Escolta Saturday Future Market

Just before this extraordinary Escolta experience turns into a memory, I definitely would love to have a photo taken together with these two buildings, Regina and First United.  

On my right (your left) is the Regina Building and
on my left (your right) is the First United Building.
There were some interesting stuff I learned from the tour that I wasn't able to take a photo of, so here are some quick facts before I end this blog:
  • Clarke's, the first ever ice cream parlor in the Philippines used to have Escolta as its home. 
  • The very first elevator in the Philippines is also found here, at Burke's Building.
  • Philippines' first moviehouse
  • The very first National Bookstore
  • Escolta used to be the business district of Manila. A good number of commercial banks first had their transactions here.
I might have a very limited imagination of how things were back then in Escolta, but this #selfiEscolta walking tour experience definitely opened my eyes and heightened my interest and awareness of how beautiful this street was. We just need to re-discover it. 

Rescue. Revive. Relive Escolta.
(Photo from Escolta's official Facebook page)

Time may pass, seasons may change, typhoons and earthquakes may come and go, people's preferences may appear to have much diversity this time around. But one thing is never leaving us, it is our rich history and cultural heritage, passed on to us by the previous generation. This heritage we have, it's just there, it never left us. It is us who abandoned it just because we are all too excited about what uncertainty this modernization and commercialization lead us. Before Manila is known to be the 'Gates of Hell' and has this cockroach-y smell, it used to be Asia's queen city, the pioneer in everything! Whatever happens to the good old days. But then, it is never too late to bring back the glory to our beloved city. 

Let's all revive the Old Manila, one step at a time. How? It's simple, spend your Saturdays exploring the streets of Escolta, Malate, Intramuros. They are never dead. It's you who forgot about them.

I'd like to end this blog entry with this:

"Viva Manila would like to remind you that this is what your city is supposed to feel like. By getting people to really be involved to a city, you really won't be concerned about safety issues, you will create a community and what's more importantly, you'll actually create a place where you want to live in and not a city that you would want to getaway from every weekend." (C) Carlos Celdran


Go. Visit. Escolta. And. The. Rest. Of. The. Streets. Of. Manila. NOW.
It's now or never.


*Because demolishing old buildings is a going trend in real estate nowadays. 

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